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Here as an excerpt from the book to be an artist
"I briefly become acquainted with Srinagar, capital of Kashmir where the next sacred site to add to the project was situated - the Shah Hamdan mosque. Originally built in the fourteenth century though damaged by fire in the fifteenth & eighteenth century’s this was one of the first mosques to be built not only in Srinagar, but in Kashmir. It is a rare mosque, not because of its completely wooden construction but its pointed spire, unusual Islamic architectural design.
But fires still burned. The entire area in this the 20th and soon to be the 21st century totally wracked by unrest. Coiferred colonels, religious leaders and desperate diplomats tried, and said they would always continue to try to reach compromise. The interim sees people suffer degradation. The quality of life, it could be seen at street level by anyone, not the best.
Raschid guided me around the mosque and city. He worked for the Shabnam Houseboat Company of Dal Lake, the place of my temporary abode. He had been assigned to me, this western tourist to show places to and not to go. Then . . . Oi! , A man foisted himself close up to my face and insisted I return to London straightaway to tell the president and prime minister of the plight of Kashmir. I pointed out to him that the only thing that remotely connected me to these politicians was the colour of my hair. This was not the ideal response. Although he didn’t point his fire - arm directly at me, his impassioned plea did prompt further riposte. I had to communicate to this desperado that his wishes would be followed somehow if given the chance to do so. I learnt that to be a tourist here, let alone one trying to-be-an-artist was no effortless role. Raschid remonstrating with the man unsuccessfully as this energy filled encounter concluded with a two- fisted handshake. With his head the brigand gave a sideways, yet up and down nod, straight-eyed, Indian style. Calming Raschid, who briefly I had come to know was jittery at the best of times, did I return to the houseboat where bidis were chain - smoked for the rest of the evening"
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